Black Dandyism: The Full Picture
Earlier this month, on May 5, the 2025 Met Gala took place with the theme Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.
This article is not a dissertation on the Met Gala; it is a reflection on the cultural significance of the Black Dandyism movement and a look at who’s often left out of that conversation.
The roots of Black Dandyism can be traced to a history shaped by oppression and imposed identity. Enslaved Africans were forced to wear their enslavers’ clothing, a method of control, dehumanization, and reinforcement of the belief that they were property.
The first recorded Black dandy was Julius Soubise, an Afro-Caribbean enslaved man who became a prominent figure in 18th-century London. Known for his elaborate dress and flamboyant personality, Soubise disrupted the social norms of his time, challenging the idea that elegance belonged only to the upper-class of white society.
In the 18th century, enslavers in places like the UK and the U.S. purchased what they referred to as “luxury slaves”; individuals they dressed up as status symbols. As Monica Miller notes in her book Slaves to Fashion, enslaved people were considered “accessories” and were dressed in fine clothing to reflect their enslavers’ wealth.
Depiction of Julius Soubise (1754 – 25 August 1798)
Take a moment and sit with that.
It’s disturbing and difficult to process, but our ancestors not only endured this, they found joy, created beauty, and found ways to live on their own terms despite it. That resilience speaks to the sheer brilliance of the Black community.
What was once meant to dehumanize us became a source of power. We reclaimed dandyism as a form of expression, dressing on our own terms in styles that honored our roots and asserted our humanity.
And when we say “we,” we mean all of us.
Too often, the narrative of Black Dandyism is told through a narrow lens, one that centers only on men. That view is incomplete and doesn’t capture the full scope of Black Dandy expression.
Here are just a few groups who are often left out of the conversation:
Black Women – Black women have long used style as a form of resistance, creativity, and pride. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, dress became a means of challenging both hyper-visibility and invisibility. Through sharp tailoring, flamboyant silhouettes, and intentional self-styling, Black women embodied the essence of dandyism.
African Sapeurs – Originating in the Republic of Congo and the Democratic Republic of Congo, the La Sape movement (Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes) emerged from colonial histories. The people of Congo adopted and reinterpreted European colonial dress codes, transforming them into bold statements of personal expression. Despite the lingering legacies of colonial rule and poverty, Sapeurs made fashion a form of empowerment.
Black Queer Community – Black queer individuals have always played a central, though often unrecognized, role in fashion, performance, and self-expression. In Harlem’s drag balls of the 1920s and ’30s, and later in ballroom culture, they used fashion to construct identity and critique gender norms. Many of them embraced elements of dandyism: sharp tailoring, glamour, and exaggeration. Their style was not just personal; it was political. Through their fashion, they carved out space for freedom, identity, and artistry in a world that constantly tried to erase them.
The Black Church – In the early 20th century, when Jim Crow laws and anti-Black violence limited access to upward mobility and public dignity, Sunday church service became one of the few spaces where Black people could dress on their own terms. Fashion in the Black church, especially during the Civil Rights Movement, symbolized collective pride, tradition, and faith. This legacy of dignified fashion deeply connects to Black Dandyism and its roots in reclaiming visibility.
On April 9, 2025, we hosted a workshop on Black Dandyism in partnership with Black Girls Know Best and Black Girls in Archives, during a cohort program for Black girls ages 16–22 to learn about Black Dandyism, and the importance of archiving.
We were honored to be joined by fashion and costume historian Shelby Ivey Christie, who shared thoughtful insights on the legacy of Black Dandyism and offered tips on how to begin archiving personal and community histories.
It is vital that we accurately preserve our stories; if we don’t, who will?
Archiving movements like Black Dandyism helps ensure the full scope of Black identity and creativity is remembered. Research, ask questions, and learn your history. There is power in knowing where we come from and honoring those who came before us.